new stockholm

Konditori Eclair

2012-01-31T09:22:00.000-08:00

Konditori Eclair

Hornsgatan 104

086695559

I have to admire Konditori Eclair's window display. Not only they made a giant semla, but they managed to produce a few flying ones. Priceless. Oh, they are delicious, by the way.

back home

2012-01-21T07:50:00.000-08:00

These past days I've been eating the best baguettes, fluffy crossaints and fancy macaroons. One thing was missing, though. And that's good coffee, or at least decent coffee.

Coffee in Paris is probably the worst I've ever had. Anywhere.

Except for extremely geeky La Cafeoteque where I had a perfectly made cappuccino. But the rest..

Glad to be back in cold Stockholm. Home of some of the best coffee. Anywhere.

So basically I've been craving good coffee for days now. I went to Coffice and had this amazing cappuccino.

A macaroon would have been good.

Between the bars

2012-01-18T09:30:00.000-08:00

1. Indigo

2. Kåken

3. Pet Sounds Bar

4. Snotty

5. El Mundo

6. Brooklyn Bar

7. Marie Laveau

I've been getting several emails from readers wondering about bars in Stockholm. I know I usually write about coffee or pizza. But bars in Stockholm are definitely worth a check, too.

In general, nightlife in this city can be quite a cozy experience, especially if compared with other cities' nightlife.

It all starts fairly early, and most bars close at 1:00. So it's worth showing up at around 22:00 and let the night do its thing. Drinks can be a bit expensive, but it's worth the investment. In terms of which bar to choose, it depends on the mood and what one is after. Some can be a bit busier, with louder music and even some dodgy dancing. Kåken would fall under this category. It's the only place on my list that opens till later (2.00) and it starts a bit later, too. Lots of people around and good music. Open wednesdays till saturdays.

I do prefer cozier bars, tho, like Indigo, Pet Sounds and Snotty. Music is usually really good, cool crowds and drinks. Ideal on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Brookly Bar and Marie Leveau are more lively and crowded. I go to either one of this places when after a bit of a party athmosphere, but not too much. At M.L. there's a cover charge, but it's free before 23:00, so it's fine.

And El Mundo is a great local bar with a bit of an ironic latin flavor. No salsa or mariachis here, well, just a bit, but in an ironic way. Well worth a visit for some tragos and fiestas plus there's a really good restaurant by the bar, as well, called Matkultur.

So yeah, here's my top 7 bars in Stockholm. Bottoms up.

Blå Lotus

2012-01-12T09:09:00.000-08:00

Cafe Blå Lotus

Katarina Bangata 21

086445043

I've always found hippies somewhat funny and interesting. They like flowers, group hugs and usually good music. Their original ideals inspired a whole range of people and gave way to new ideas, like the whole new age thing to good vegetarian restaurants here and there.

When I lived in Los Angeles I lived near Topanga Canyon, one of the bastions of the original hippies. True tho that many of them became quite wealthy (like the owners of Tazo tea company or Odwalla juice) but others are still group hugging and listening to usually good music with long grey hair and beards but living 'frugally'. I've always loved driving thru Topanga Canyon on my way to Malibu. It literally felt like a time capsule, a live documentary about those days. Of course, these days it's one of the most expensive areas to live in.

Somehow Blå Lotus reminds me of those hippie days I've never experienced except for those drives thru Topanga Canyon.

Maybe it's the new agey decor or the overall feeling, but yeah. Their breakfast is amazingly good and filling. But this is probably one of the best place to go for soup in Stockholm. Affordable, always served with good bread and with a smile. No group hugs, tho.

Chic Konditori

2012-01-11T10:08:00.000-08:00

Chic Konditori

Swedenborgsgatan 1

086427040

So many times people have asked me where to go for proper swedish baked goods. And it's not an easy answer, because so many cafes in Stockholm are more 'anglo' style cafes, with barista style coffee and organic this and that. Despite the name Chic Konditori is not particularly chic, but it's a proper swedish bakery. The place itself feels like a swedish grandma's house with outdated but somehow fitting wallpaper and old furniture all over. The coffee is decent but not life changing. But the baked goods are perfect. I've been there a few times already, and today I had a swedish classic, semla. The atomic bomb of them baked goods. The big boy. Creamy, fluffy and filling. Just as it should be.

This cafe is located in one of Stockholm's nicest neighborhoods, Maria Torget. Worth a walk after snacking and surviving a semla.

2012-01-08T02:02:00.000-08:00

As I mentioned, Drop Coffee is one of my favorite places in town. I was there yesterday and had this delicious breakfast. Best coffee in town. Easily.

Bianchi Cafe

2012-01-07T05:57:00.000-08:00

Bianchi Cafe

Norrlandsgatan 20

086112100

It's not often that I find myself around the Östermalm area of Stockholm. It's the fancy part of town and I'm not too fancy, yet. Still it's a busy and pintoresque neighborhood and it's good to go over from time to time to check out some stores and feel a bit posh.

It's not easy finding interesting cafes there, too many people, too many tourist traps.

Owned by the legendary italian brand, Bianchi Cafe and bike shop is different, if a bit overpriced. Coffee is good and strong and they offer cakes and pastries for the afternoon snacks. For lunch they have sallads and soups, all freshly prepared. Overall, a great place to take a break from all the shopping and walking around.

Now, I don't own a Bianchi bicycle, tho. They are too fancy, and I'm not that fancy, yet.

Coffice

2012-01-06T02:11:00.000-08:00

Coffice

Tjärhovsgatan 5

08 462 9550

We are in the middle of winter. Christmas and New Years' are nothing but a hazy memory. And still no snow. No snow at all. I read that it's been the warmest winter in history. Maybe it's global warming, maybe it's the 2012 end of the world mayan thing. I don't know. Still I pretend everything is normal and go for good coffee around town.

Coffice combines two of stockholmers biggest passions: coffee and working at an office.

This place is not just a coffee shop, but a 'worker's club', where for a small fee, one can join and use their space as an informal office and meeting place. Their cafe is run by Drop Coffee, one of the best roasters in the city. For lunch they offer soups and toasted sandwiches. Perfect for these winter days. Even if there's no snow.

pizza hatt

2012-01-05T12:56:00.000-08:00

Pizza Hatt

Upplandsgatan 9

It's hard to talk about this place without talking about the name. I'm not sure how it came about but it's just genius. And in many ways it's the opposite of Pizza Hut. It's not a chain, the pizzas are handmade and the restaurant is cozy.

Ok, the prices are probably a bit high and yes, the opening hours are not too friendly. But I don't really care about that too much. The menu is simple, but well developed. They use fine ingredients, cleverly prepared and sourdough pizza is all they sell, aside from some cookies and a few drinks. I don't think they have such good pizzas or cookies at Pizza Hut. I've never eaten there, and it's ok, cos when I feel like eating proper pizza I go to Pizza Hatt, instead.

Cinnamon bun day fiesta

2011-10-04T08:58:00.000-07:00

One of the things I love the most about Sweden is the quirky special days they have. Like semla day, or name days. But today is my favorite one.

Forget christmas or new years. Today is cinnamon bun day. The fluffy bun is a must have for a classic swedish fika. Definitely my favorite bun, for my favorite day.

I took this picture of a rather giant cinnamon bun at chokladkoppen, in the heart of Gamla Stan.

drop coffee

2011-09-12T06:50:00.000-07:00

Drop Coffee

Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10

070 812 8813

Today is an important day. It's the day when I decided to face my fears. I'm starting my swedish classes. Full time.

I've been living on and off in Stockholm for over a year and a half. And yet, I don't speak swedish. I can mumble a few words here and there (my friends think i'm not that bad, but I'd rather be all that good). Which means a couple of things. I'll be going to cafes a bit more often to study and have lots of coffee.

The other day I went to a newish cafe around Maria Torget. Drop Coffee has become one of my favorite new places. They roast their own beans, which in itself is quite amazing. In fact, they are very geeky about their beans. They also have a small but perfectly put together menu. Breakfast all day, toasted sandwiches, and some pastries and cupcakes. Everything you need for a very important day of studying and practicing the ö, ä, and the å's. I will need that.

Roberts Coffee

2011-08-28T05:39:00.000-07:00

I haven't posted much lately. I've been working a lot, travelling some and working some more. Thats about to change, tho. I noticed that newstockholm has been quite useful for several visitors and I still get really nice emails about it. So it is my duty to keep sampling coffee and good food around town. It must be done.

The other day I found myself at Ösermalms Saluhall, an impressive food market in the fancy part of town. From Pasta, to classic swedish dishes, this place has it all for food geeks. It was around 11am, too early for lunch, so I went to Roberts Coffee. I was very conservative, I got a cappuccino and a cinnamon bun. The coffee was smooth and the bun was just perfect. Ideal for a pre lunch snack. They also offer different kinds of organic juices, teas, sandwiches, etc. For me the coffee and the bulle were enough.

I've been working a lot and travelling some more. But I will always have time for a pre lunch snack. Even in the fancy part of town.

SOFO

2011-08-09T23:59:00.000-07:00

nice article about my neighborhood here in stockholm, in the new york times

Urban Deli Bakery

2010-11-17T12:48:00.000-08:00

Bageriet Urban Deli

Skånegatan 76

0859909180

Few things can be worst than enduring a few minutes of swedish radio. I'm not sure why, but it's just terrible music. Thing is I love good swedish music. But for some reason it doesn't get any airplay. What you will find is dansband, europop top 40s and some pop idol style music.

It's fine, tho. I guess not many people are listening to the radio these days anymore. And you can't blame them, what with all that bad music. Call it a vicious cirle, or just swedish radio.

What I do enjoy is going for breakfast. What better place than this newly opened bakery? It's owned by the same people that opened the 'urban deli', right down the street.

They serve granola with yoghurt, sandwhiches and the best freshly baked bread in the neighborhood. The coffee is great and the music they play is usually good, too. That is when they are not playing the radio. Breakfast is sacred, after all.

swedish breakfast

2010-11-07T07:11:00.000-08:00

This morning I went to Gilda's, and had this amazing breakfast. I love the 'computer free table' sign. And the latte art was delicious.

saltå kvarn cafe

2010-08-02T03:11:00.001-07:00

Saltå Kvarn

I haven't been writing much on the blog, lately. I've been on holidays and enjoying the summer a bit too much. I went to Denmark and southern Sweden.

But i'm not going to write about that right now (maybe later). What I do want to write about is Saltå Kvarn, where we stopped for a quick lunch on our way to Denmark.

This cafe/store is just half an hour from Stockholm, which makes it a perfect place for a day trip of amazing organic food in the countryside.

I had the most delicious pasta salad ever with their famous organic mango-orange juice, sitting right by a stream next to the cafe. Perfect location for a fresh lunch.

Saltå Kvarn is a cooperative that sells organic flour, bread, beans and juice. It's one of my favorite swedish brands and what's best, they are about to open a bakery right down the street, here in southern Stockholm, on Bondegatan street. A great addition to the neighborhood.

I've been enjoying the summer a bit too much. Now it's time to get back to work, have proper coffee around the neighborhood and wait for saltå kvarn bakery to open its doors in august.

Hermans

2010-06-10T12:59:00.001-07:00

Hermans

Fjällgatan 23

086439480

Hermans' is definitely my favorite restaurant in Stockholm. It's affordable, 100% vegetarian and it offers the best views in town. Especially now that it's warmer, there are lots of tables outdoors, where one can sit out and enjoy an amazing lunch/dinner. The food is great, all you can eat buffet style, there are stews, freshly baked bread, lots of different salads and delicious hummus.

This is the kind of place that make living (or visiting) Stockholm well worth it.

I'm happy because I became a member which means I get a discount every time I eat there plus a free lunch on my birthday.

I know they say there's no such thing as a free lunch but it's fine. Hermans is worth every penny. Especially on your birthday.

Skåningen

2010-06-04T01:02:00.000-07:00

Skånegatan 92

086422900

Today's the Stockholm marathon. It's sunny, not too hot, a nice day for running. That is unless you find running around town a bit pointless. If you do find it pointless (I do, for the record) then you can just go for coffee and sit out and enjoy the sun. Probably the smallest cafe in the neighborhood, Skåningen, is owned and ran by the nicest six sisters I've ever met. This little cafe offers amazing freshly baked goods and the best coffee around.

I have to go rest now. I'm a bit tired after enjoying this amazing day under the sun. I almost feel as if I've just ran a marathon.

Spring

2010-05-16T13:09:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was the first warm day in months. For the first time this year, I was able to walk around without a scarf, and i'm glad i don't have to wear some horrible big boots to keep my feet somewhat warm and dry. I'm looking forward to long lazy days at the park, drinking ice coffee and taking my bicycle for a ride.

I just came across thise picture taken just a couple of months ago, right by my place. It now seems like it was years ago.

Yesterday was the first warm day in months and today I'm putting my scarf and boots away.

It's spring, you see.

Johan & Nyström

2010-04-04T11:42:00.000-07:00

Johan & Nyström

Swedenborgsatan 7

08 702 2040

Lactose free milk seems to be in vogue in Stockolm. Not sure why, but lactose has become the new enemy.

It used to be butter or white bread. New enemies seem to keep popping up, making the simple act of eating quite a complicated one.

I prefer simple food. If i want to eat bread, I just eat bread, If i want sugar, then I eat sugar (non of those sweetners for me). If i want a capuccino, I order a capuccino. No lactose free or soy milk for me. Good old milk would do.

Now, if I want an amazing cappuccino, I go to Johan & Nyström's.

This is their concept store, located in the Mariatorget area of southern Stockholm. These guys are wholesalers and source and roast their own beans. And I love that. Real coffee, real milk, amazing macaroons and an amazing store.

What else does one need? Lactose free milk? No, thanks.

Cafe Cinema

2010-02-20T11:23:00.000-08:00

Södermannagatan 39

mon/fri 8am-6pm

sat 10am-5pm

sun 11am-5pm

Yes it's cold. Yes it's been snowing forever now. Spring seems to be a fading memory. What to do? Nothing much, really, other than going out for coffee and grilled cheese sandwiches.

Cafe Cinema is owned by swedish film director Mani Maserrat Agah, who opened it a few months ago. It's a really tiny place and very cozy. The coffee is great, and the grilled cheese sandwiches are just amazing. Every afternoon they offer cream tea, a bit of a rarity in this nordic city. One can also rent indie movies, especially hand picked by the owner himself.

The cafe is tucked away and a bit hidden, but well worth the treck.

I know it's cold and snowy. But hey, spring is coming soon. So I heard.

Urban Deli

2009-12-30T05:39:00.000-08:00

Urban Deli

Nytorget 4

opened everyday from 8am-11pm

08 599 091 80

So, I haven't written anything for a while. I'm sorry about that. Thing is I've been working hard on opening my own business, which is up and running now. So that's good. I can start writing again about my favorite places to go for coffee in this cold but cozy city.

New cafes have been popping up all over town, and I promise to review each and every one of them. It's a tough life, you see.

Right around the corner from my place, this huge new cafe/bar/deli opened a couple of months ago. It looks pretty sleek and it reminds me of Whole Foods Market. Unfortunately it's a bit pricey and there are not many vegetarian options and the portions are rather small. But it's still worth a visit. The coffee is good, the setting's great and they are open till late, which is a rarity here in Stockholm.

I truly hope they do well, and that they include more affordable veggie options, so I can go there more often, now that my business is up and running..

Blooms

2009-11-18T11:58:00.000-08:00

Blooms
St Paulsgatan 24
mon/fri 8am-6pm
sat/sun 10am-5pm
08 6409036

Winter is upon us here in Stockholm. It's cold, rainy, dark. People go quite and everybody wears black.
No more coffee at the park, no more bicycle rides. So what to do? Now that it's cold there's nothing cozier than going for breakfast to good cafes around the neighborhood. One of my favorite ones is 'Blooms', a bakery located in 'maria torget', a neighborhood full of independent shops and galleries. Everything is freshly baked on premises (a rarity in Sweden) and they make the best coffee ever.

Now it's time to wear black in the dark, and to drink dark black coffee. It'll keep you warm and cozy. It's winter after all.

La Neta

2009-11-04T13:25:00.000-08:00

La Neta
Barnuhsgatan 2
08411 5880

I usually write about coffee. Where to go for good coffee, this or that cappuccino, blah blah.
But not today. Today i'm going mexican. Sweden might be an unlikely place to enjoy mexican food, but hey, I'm always open for some good tacos, even in cold Sweden.
I almost gave up on mexican food here, that is until I heard of La Neta.
The other day I was working around the downtown area. It was cold, I was starving. Luckily, I remembered this small place owned and ran by mexicans.
They offer a simple and affordable menu: tacos and quesadillas.
The food was everything mexican food should be: delicious, fresh and spicy.. The staff was friendly and I got to finally use my spanish in Stockholm. 'La Neta' means 'for real' or 'the truth' in mexican (I know, I know), which is a perfect name for this restaurant. Their food is truthfully good. For real.

Cocovaja

2009-10-17T03:09:00.000-07:00

Cocovaja
St. Eriksgatan 109

Living, working and developing a business in Sweden is certainly not easy. But there are a few things that definitely help. Friends, family support (even from a distance) and some sort of familiar habits or routines. For me, that's going for coffee.
There's nothing I love more than a smooth cup of coffee. And that's something I've enjoyed in every city i've lived. A friend of mine who's a fellow expat and a talented designer and blogger, recommended Cocovaja. I actually read about this place in a book a couple of years ago, and have been curious about it ever since. But never made it there cos it's on the other side of town. But, after her recommendation I decided to take the subway and head over there.
This is probably the smallest cafe I've been to, so after securing one of the two tables on offer I ordered a cappuccino. It was the best coffee I've had in Stockholm so far. And that's a big statement, since coffee is good in general around here.
The owner is super friendly and is always at hand to give any coffee advice. He's a coffee geek and prepares mighty cappuccinos. And that's good.
Like I said, it's not easy living and working in Stockholm, but places like Cocovaja, make me feel a bit more at home. Even if I need to take the subway.

Barista cafe @ Victoria

2009-09-12T12:38:00.001-07:00

Barista Fair Trade Coffee
Götgatan 67
08-6418840

To me, breakfast is a reward to myself for waking up early. The air is fresh, the streets are quite. I barely understand what's going on. But as soon as I have breakfast, I'm happily awake . Suddenly it all makes sense.
Moving from NY to Stockholm is not easy, especially if you are a breakfast geek. From creamy scramble eggs to veggie burritos and muffins and bagels, NY is breakfast heaven.
Sweden might well be a fabian utopia, but as far as breakfasts go.. it could be better..
Still, sometimes before going for work, I stop over at 'barista', a cafe located at Victoria, Stockholm's best independent film movie theater.
Every morning they serve granola and yoghurt, cheese sandwiches and smooth fair trade coffee. The place is also open till later, so you can grab some coffee and go watch a good film.
And what can be better than coffee and a good movie? Breakfast in New York, of course.

Louie Louie

2009-09-05T11:55:00.000-07:00

Louie Louie
Bondegatan 13

I read somewhere that Stockholm had a record number of visitors this season. That's definitely good news for the local economy, and that makes me very happy.
What doesn't make me very happy is that summer is coming to an end. No more flip flops and shorts. No more sitting under the sun for hours doing nothing. It's time to go back indoors. Time for umbrellas and scarves. Time to hibernate. And what better to place to do so than a nice coffee shop, with good music and an always interesting crowd?

What better place than Louie Louie? This cafe has become a classic in the area. From affordable breakfasts to popular afternoon coffee there's always something decent to eat.
Oh, and there's a nice outdoors sitting area, just in case it's sunny.
It's not winter yet, after all..

rulle

2009-08-25T10:45:00.000-07:00

I heard about this fast food thing called rulle. I've never had it, cos it's made with sausages and as a veggie, sausages are just no fun. But it also has lettuce and mashed potatoes, which I love.. Amazingly all wrapped up on a flat bread.
Not that long ago I tried the veggie version of it.
A good friend of mine, came from NYC for a couple of days. He's 'TV on the Radio's roadie and they played at Debaser.
I didn't have time to eat a proper dinner, so I headed directly to Debaser hoping to grab something to eat on the way. And i did!
I went to this place that's right across the street where the show took place, and ate a veggie rulle.
Now, I'm not a big fast food lover, and usually I like taking my time when eating. But sometimes you just need something quick, cheap and filling. And filling it was.
This rulle thing didn't change my life, and i'm not a convert, but if you find yourself around Debaser about to see your favorite band, don't be shy. Head over to Maxi Grillen and order a rulle. It's cheap, quick and filling.
Sometimes that's all you need.

Kiosk Axel

2009-08-08T12:09:00.001-07:00

Kiosk Axel
Åsögatan and Nytorgsgatan

During the colder days nothing beats staying at home with a warm cup of tea, a fresh cinnamon roll and good company. Talking about this and that, just hanging out and hoping for some cozy moments.
On the other hand, during the warmer days, nothing beats a good coffee outdoors.
One of the best things about summer in Stockholm are these cafes that pop up around town during the warm season. My favorite one? Kiosk Axel.
The always friendly staff serve smooth organic coffee, amazing sandwiches and a lunch salad. Supposedly they offer breakfast, but they are never open that early. So don't count on that. In fact, their opening hours are a little loose. They only open if the weather is good, and at the time they feel like, usually at around 10am. But that's ok. It's summer, after all.

Primo Ciao Ciao

2009-08-05T13:07:00.000-07:00

Bondegatan 44
mon/fri 1030am-930pm
sat/sun noon-930pm
086400110

Sweden is the home of some of the most unlikely marriages. Like an interesting and much debated mix between socialism and capitalism, or kebab pizza. Need I explain more? Something tells me that kebab and pizza just don't go together, and still, it probably is the most popular fast food item around the country. Pretty much, anywhere you go in the country, especially in small towns, there's always a kebab pizza place. I'm not entirely sure how this came about, but I do know that the swedes love it.
Unfortunately I'm not into it, not only cos I'm a veggie, but even if I was a meat eater (and I'm not even sure what kind of meat, if any, kebab is) I wouldn't eat it.
I think pizza should be simple, prepared with the freshest ingredients and cooked in a wood burning oven, if possible. Now I don't mean to sound picky or anything, but pizza is sacred, unlike socialism or capitalism.
My favorite pizza place in Stockholm is Primo Ciao Ciao. Right down the street from my place, this tiny pizzeria is everything a good pizzeria should be. They offer affordable, fresh and deliciously thin and crispy pizza, prepared in a wood burning oven.
Also there's a good variety of italian goods and desserts, from lady fingers and tiramisu to fluffy panettones (bringing childhood christmas memories) and everything in between.
No kebab pizza here. That's fine by me.

Oslo

2009-07-11T14:49:00.001-07:00

I read the story about a homeless man that died a millionaire. It seems he had collected so many cans and bottles that slowly made him quite a fortune.
The thing is he never got to enjoy it. He put it in a bank, penny by penny, year after year, for a long time.
He died of old age, still homeless but with lots of money in his bank account. This happened in Stockholm not that long ago.
I was just visiting Oslo, and that story came to mind. Norway is one of the richest countries in the world, what with all that oil and gas in the North Sea. But apparently norwegians don't get to enjoy any of the riches that come from it. In fact Norway has one of the highest tax rates in the world, which certainly don't help much with the prices.
They are saving the money for the future. Unlike Dubai, for example, the norwegian government chose to leave most of that money untouched, just in case.
So, Oslo does look a little rough, and maybe the roads are a little run down.
Now having said that, I've found (or a good friend showed me, rather) a couple of amazing places that make a visit to this city way worth it.
There was this newish organic cafe called Food Story, that serves amazing breakfast. Delicious granola with organic yogurt, fluffy crossaints and home made jam saved the morning.
Just down the street from Food Story, there's Godt Brød, an all organic bakery. Perfect for a quick lunch, or afternoon coffee/tea. They have a great selection of freshly made sandwiches and pastries.
Also in the same neighborhood I went to probably one of the cutest cafes ever, Vespa Cafe.
Owned by a swede expat, Vespa, has more of an italian inspiration, it's pretty tiny, so finding a chair is a bit of a luxury. But still, nothing better than having a quick capuccino before continuing one's life journey.
Then.. my favorite part of the whole trip. After hanging out for a good couple of days I was recommended a tiny cafe, in a forgotten corner of Grünerløkka.
Tim Wendelboe is not your average coffee shop. It's a micro roastery, a coffee training center, and an importer of different variates of coffee beans.
They have a Clover machine, a la Marzocco espresso machine and all kinds of presses. I had bolivian coffee pressed in the Clover machine. It was amazing, creamy and fruity, non of the acidic flavor that usually comes with black coffee. Anyway, the place was perfect, the music, the service, the smell. I truly admire people that have a passion, and share it with others. Tim really made the experience of going for coffee an unforgettable one.
So after a few days in Oslo I almost feel like a homeless man, I'm honestly at the brink of bankruptcy (this city is one of the most expensive in the world, after all). But unlike that homeless man i was talking about earlier, I actually got to enjoy a bit. Now, i must go collect some cans and bottles.

goodstore

2009-06-29T13:37:00.000-07:00

goodstore
Skånegatan 92
mon/fri 10am-8pm
sat 11am-6pm
sun 12pm-7pm
086414036

It's finally sunny and summery here in Stockholm. Which means that most people are happy and tanned. I'm mostly out all day, riding my bicycle, having picnics, and sitting at the park with my coffee and cinnamon roll. So I haven't been to many cafes lately. One place I have been for sure, is the goodstore. A small family grocery's store with the best selection of vegetarian and organic foods in town. The owners (mom and daughter) are always around to help out.
It's an organic store, a vegetarian store it's a good store.

Rosendal part ll

2009-06-15T07:31:00.000-07:00

I was just reading that this has been the coldest summer so far in like five decades. Weather is always part of the conversation here, and yes, the weather usually is bad around this side of the world. Tho, I'm still looking forward to warmer drier days. I know that they are coming. You definitely don't want to lose hope.
And when they do come... ahh. when they eventually come, I'm going to be outside all day, go to Nytorget for coffee, take boat rides, be in a good mood and I'll definitely go back to Rosendal.
It actually was pretty sunny here a couple of weeks ago. And I did go to Rosendal. Rode my bicycle there and had delicious soup and then a perfect fika (coffee and cinnamon rolls).
They make the best cinnamon rolls I've had so far in Sweden. They are freshly made everyday, big and sweet, but not too sweet, slightly crispy on the outside and soft and airy inside. Just as it should be.
Now I'm looking forward to warmer days so I can go do all these things we are supposed to do in the summer. Even if it takes five decades..

Gilda's room

2009-06-10T06:51:00.000-07:00

Gilda's room
Skånegatan 79
mon/thu 8am-11pm
fri 8am-8pm
sat 9am-8pm
sun 9am-9pm

So far, this summer hasn't been too kind to all of us living here. It's been cold and rainy. But when it is nice, and we have had some nice days, there's nothing better than going to Nytorget, when staying in the city.
It's a small square in the SOFO area of Söder, surrounded by lots of cafes and restaurants. There's even an ice cream shop which opens just a few months a year (I want that job!).
I think it's a great area to go for coffee and pastries (you can buy to go or sit at the many tables down the street) when it's sunny. Lots of locals gather here and lounge around all afternoon..
A few weeks ago 'Gilda's room' opened its doors. Run by some of the loveliest ladies in town, this cafe has become one of my favorite spots in the neighborhood. Its french inspired decor and music makes you feel right at home (and i'm not even french). They have great mini pastries and home made cakes, perfect coffee and a good selection of teas. For lunch there are grilled sandwiches, which are delicious.
One of the best things about Gilda's is that it opens till late during the week. That's almost unheard of in Stockholm for a cafe.
For those of us used to a late night latte this is the place to come before going to bed and wonder why we can't fall asleep.
Away from all the tourist traps nytorget is a perfect place to mingle with locals, sip coffee and eat pastries till late.
Rain or shine..

Publik @ PUB

2009-06-01T12:17:00.000-07:00

PUB
Publik
Gamla brogatan 9, Central Stockholm
mon/fri 8am-7pm
sat 10am-6pm
sun 11am-5pm

The downtown area of Stockholm is bustling and messy. Most of the buildings are ugly and grey, due to some reconstruction (or destruction?) project that took place in the 60's and 70's.
But in the middle of all this mess there is PUB. The best department store in Stockholm. and one of my favorites ever. They carry a great selection of small local clothing brands and some of the best bigger ones, too. And the prices aren't too bad, either.
The building itself is pretty old, and it dates back to the late 1800's, but of course it has been renovated several times.
A couple of years ago they gave it a new image/look and it really worked. PUB feels cool but unpretentious.
Anyway, at the top floor of this super department store there's Publik. With amazing views, and even better coffee and teas and delicious chocolate treats this cafe is one of my favorites places in central Stockholm.
For lunch they have salads and sandwiches, and more elaborate dishes that I haven't tried just yet. I usually happen to be there in the afternoon.....
I read that Lenin bought a suit at PUB so he could look nice in his return to Russia. I don't usually go buy suits, instead I go to Publik and sit there with my coffee and some chocolate cake. It might not make me look better, but it definitely makes me feel amazing. Just as amazing as Lenin felt, I'm sure..

Fika

2009-05-01T08:38:00.000-07:00

Maybe it's because I'm away in Buenos Aires missing the cinnamon rolls, but I'm starting to miss a few things swedish.
One of my favorite things there is the whole 'fika' concept. It basically means sharing coffee/tea with a friend. But the people at Fika London describe it a bit better:
'Today, fika consists of three essential ingredients: a drink, something to eat and some company. It is a word with a social concept that means taking a break from the everyday routine to catch up with oneself or with friends..'
So I'm looking forward to go back to Stockholm and enjoy some good coffee/sweets/company... Oh yeah, and summer!

Wayne's Coffee

2009-04-12T14:20:00.000-07:00

Wayne's Coffee

Sometimes all you need is good cup of coffee. A few days ago, I found myself at this gigantic flower shop, trying to buy a few seeds and some organic soil, and was feeling a bit tired. It was almost 6pm and dinner was a few hours away. As I was walking down the store, I came across a cafe in this most unlikely of places. It looked as if a coffee shop was springing out of a jungle or something. Wayne's Coffee is a coffee house chain that's become a classic in Sweden. I think it's friendlier version of Starbucks.
I usually go to the Götgatan branch. But this time here I was, buying plants, feeling slightly cranky wondering how I ended up in the middle of nowhere deciding which flower pot to get. Anyway, the coffee was good, and the cinnamon roll, too. Sometimes all I need is a good cup of coffee..

Rosendal

2009-04-03T05:25:00.001-07:00

Rosendal

Stockholm is not an in-your-face kind of city. It slowly reveals itself. It takes its time. Unlike London, or NYC. You either love them or hate them, but the swedish capital tends to be more subtle and gentler to the visitor and residents alike. Definitely spring is when the city comes alive, revealing its colors, its people. Suddenly you see people, humans! Yes, it's not a deserted island anymore.
As soon as it gets sunny, time to go out, sit down at some park, and enjoy coffee or ice cream, or both! I don't really feel the urge of going out of the city, like I had in London, which can be quite suffocating in the summer. Also Stockholm is located on an archipelago, so the water is never too far.
If I do want to be surrounded by nature then I head to Rosendal. It's just a short bus ride from central Stockholm. It's the perfect place to go for lunch or afternoon tea/coffee. It basically is a big green house, with several tables inside and out. The food is very fresh, mostly vegetarian and organic and they grow their own veggies, which is a plus on freshness. They also offer courses, lectures and exhibitions on horticulture, organic cooking and gardening. Just in case you want to be even closer to nature..

IKEA

2009-03-30T11:28:00.000-07:00

IKEA

What do most swedish families do during the weekends? Apparently they go to IKEA. And not just for cheap furniture.
Lunch and afternoon coffee seem to be very popular among thousands of young families around here. It's hard to deny that the promise of affordable furniture and cheap food is tempting. And because I'm easily temptable (is that even a word?) and needed a couple of stools, I ended up at the IKEA in Barkaby, just outside Stockholm. It was so crowded! Kids running around, people buying just about anything imaginable and hundreds having coffee at their cafe.
Now, i've been to other Ikeas, including the ones in Burbank, New Jersey and London, but hey, this is the original experience.
This omnipresent mega store is as swedish as meatballs, blonds and long winters. So when in Sweden do as the swedes do: go to IKEA, buy a couple of things, have some good coffee and cake, go home with a blond, have meatballs and enjoy the long winters..

Svart Kaffe

2009-03-26T04:35:00.000-07:00

Svart Kaffe
Södermannagatan 23
mon/fri 8am-8pm
sat/sun 8am-7pm
08 462 95 00

There seems to be a bit of a baby boom going on here in Sweden. I'm not sure why, although I think I know how. A quick stroll around the city will confirm this. Lots of moms and dads with their baby strollers, having coffee with other moms/dads enjoying the more than generous maternity leave benefits. Personally I'm not into babies just yet, but I'm definitely into going for coffee enjoying my more than generous free time. Svart Kaffe, just a few blocks from my place, is a classic in the SoFo area of southern Stockholm. Maybe that's why I go there often. Or maybe it's the Reeses' cups, proper cookies, bagels and the gigantic selection of sandwiches that do it for me. Don't be surprised if you see baby strollers 'parked' outside local coffee shops. Remember, there's a bit of a baby boom going on..

Spring in Stockholm

2009-03-21T09:58:00.000-07:00

It's still freezing out, but hey, when spring comes it brings the sunshine with it. So these days it's not uncommon to see lots of happy swedish people enjoying a latte under the sun. Yes, a coat is still necessary, but who cares?! I certainly don't. That's why today I ended up at this lovely cafe by the water on Strandvägen in Östermalm, on the way to the the Vassa Museum. It's still freezing out, but I don't care..

Espresso Baren @ Moderna Museet

2009-03-16T04:38:00.000-07:00

Moderna Museet
tue 10am-8pm
wed/sun 10am-6pm
mondays closed

Whether it's the Tate's, the MoMa or Malba, if there's something I love about going to Art Museums is enjoying a good cup of coffee after a couple of hours of walking around. Of course it's not different here in Stockholm. Moderna Museet has an amazing cafe right at the entrance. Cinnamon rolls, muffins, chocolate and good coffee makes a visit to this modern art museum way worth it. In fact, last time I was there I didn't even bother to actually go check the art! So whether it's muffins, cinnamon rolls or brownies, if there's something i love about modern art museums is a great cup of coffee..

Götgatan Stories

2009-03-03T08:16:00.000-08:00

Götgatan Stories
Götgatan 78
mon/fri 10am-9pm,
sat 10am-6pm
sun 11am-6pm

In the middle of Söder there's this horrible, monolithic 70's building that was supposed to solve all housing problems in the area. A few years ago it was empty and run down. Sometime last year, they fixed it up and transformed the main building into student accommodations, and opened several stores as well. There's a book store, a few clothing stores and most importantly Götgatan Stories.
It is one of my favorites cafes in the neighborhood. The design alone is worth the visit: great furniture, including a long cummunal table with tons of books and magazines to check out, the lighting, the counter. As far as lunch goes, there are fresh sandwiches, salads and smoothies. But the sweet things are the best. Like a killer chocolate cake, blueberry muffins, different kinds of chocolates, freshly baked cookies, and all sorts of baked swedish treats. Oh yeah, the coffee is pretty good, too!
So its fair to say that in the middle of Söder there still is a horrible and monolithic building. But with an amazing coffee shop and a few other stores on the main floor..

24/2 - Semla day

2009-02-23T13:56:00.000-08:00

Around january I noticed these rich and creamy baked buns all over town. what are they? and.. Where were they during the rest of the year? Apparently these tradition originated a few hundreds years ago, when people fasted for weeks before easter. So in order to store up some fat, they came up with the famous Semla buns. Of course as old traditions go, they mutate over time becoming more 'user friendly'. Fortunately you don't have to fast to enjoy semla, too bad they are hard to find during the rest of the year. Although in all honesty, a couple of these creamy buns would be enough for the rest of the year, and probably for the rest of your life!

Albert & Jack's

2009-02-17T04:58:00.000-08:00

Albert & Jack's
Engelbrektsgatan 3
08 6115001
mon/fri 7am-6pm
sat 8am-4pm

Albert & Jack's is a NYC style deli. It's all there: old subway tiles, tall shelves, freshly baked rolls and bread. Of course being a Swedish deli there are cinnamon rolls, vanilla rolls and knäckebröd, all freshly baked as well. I was there for breakfast today and had their delicious and crunchy granola and natural yoghurt, coffee and a smoothie. The clerk thought it was funny that I was having breakfast at 11.00am. That's because Swedish people have lunch at 11.30 and dinner at 6:30 pm, heheh. I still can't get used to that.
It was really good, though and not too pricy, given the neighborhood. For lunch there are salads (they are huge!), sandwiches and soups. These guys are doing pretty well, so they opened another branch in Gamla Stan. Remember, don't go too late, you might miss your breakfast. I almost did.

Choklad Fabriken

2008-12-22T03:02:00.001-08:00

Choklad Fabriken
mon/fri 10am-6.30pm
sat 10am-5pm
sun closed
08 640 05 68

Where do we come from? Where are we going? Why do so many swedish guys wear pointy leather shoes? Some mysteries will remain unsolved. But others won't. Like: Where can i get the best chocolate in Sweden?
Easily, 'ChokladFabriken' (the chocolate factory) is the best place to go for freshly made chocolates, and everything chocolate related, from cakes to organic cocoa to yummy hot chocolate. The coffee is smooth, but strong, so be prepared.
These guys opened a few years ago, defying a swedish trend to outsource everything and stop using their hands at work. They have won just about each and every award in the competitive but delicious world of chocolate making. Their store looks pretty good, too. It's modern and clean, without being minimalistic or cold.
So, as far as 'where are we going?' I'm going to Choklad Fabriken. That's a mystery I'm willing to solve..

Glögg

2008-12-19T11:20:00.001-08:00

What's the spirit of christmas, I wonder? Santa? Gingerbread houses? Mindless shopping sprees? Drunk family members? Noooooo! in Sweden at least nothing says christmas like Glögg. How to describe it? First time I tried it I didn't like it much. I felt it was too sweet and way too different. But after several tries I started liking it. It definitely tastes like xmas, it's drank warm, in a small glass and with a few almonds and raisins in it. Swedes also eat pepparkakor with it, a local version of gingerbread cookies, which are great, by the way. In fact, it's not uncommon to be offered glögg and gingerbread cookies at stores around the city, which is a good thing. It reminds us that life can be magical, even if drunk family members dress up as santa to give us presents they got after several mindless shopping sprees..

Chutney

2008-12-15T15:14:00.000-08:00

Chutney
Katarina Bangata 19
Mon - Fri 11.00-22.00
Sat 12.00-22.00
Sun 12.00-22.0
08 640 30 10

I don't think Stockholm has a strong eating out tradition. It might be the cold, some old socialist thing, I dunno. Thankfully that is all changing. Younger people go out for lunch and dinner much more often than their parents.
In the last 5 years lots of casual, affordable restaurants and cafes have been popping up all over town. And that makes life a little more fun.
Chutney is one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants in the area. The food has eastern influences. From thai to indian curries and stews. It's very affordable, you can eat as much as you want to and it also works as an informal art gallery. This is the kind of place to go when you are really hungry. In the summer they take out a few tables to the sidewalk, so it's nice to sit out and enjoy the short but intense swedish summer. Chutney makes me happy, and being part of a new tradition, makes me even happier..